Skin Care Product Ingredients for Hyper-Pigmentation
Arbutin – L-Arbutin is a naturally occurring form of hydroquinone that inhibits melanin synthesis by inhibiting tyrosinase activity. Arbutin has also been clinically proven to lighten existing pigment.
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate (Licorice)** – Natural plant lightening agent, tyrosinase inhibitor, more effective than kojic acid and 75 times more effective than ascorbic acid as a lightening agent.
Hydroquinone – A pigment-lightening agent used in bleaching creams. The FDA allows a maximum of 2 percent concentration in a cosmetic formulation. Although it occurs naturally, the synthetic version is the one most commonly used in cosmetics.
Kojic Acid – A skin-lightening agent of widespread use in Japan. Studies are finding it to be a tyrosinase inhibitor, though not as effective as licorice extract. When combined with allantoin and other proper ingredients in sunscreen preparations, the mixture can inhibit UV-caused erythematic and accelerate wound healing.
Matsuke Singer Enzyme Mushroom Extract – Highly potent mushroom extract from Japan. Studies are showing to be the most potent skin whitening agent.
Rumex – Alpha Arbutin’s manufacturers proclaim that the active, pure substance works on removing “liver spots”, brightening skin color, and inhibiting tanning (even after UV sun exposure) and darkening of the skin BETTER than d-kojic acid and hydroquinone — the medicine dermatologists prescribe and the de facto OTC go-to for ridding of age spots.
Alpha Arbutin as the ALPHA (a-glucosidic ) inhibits the activity of tyrosinase MUCH more effectively than its beta version. The alpha form offers higher stability and efficacy, leading to a skin lightening active that acts faster and more efficiently leading to much more pronounced diminishing of liver spots (age spots), and an obvious reduction in the degree of skin tanning after UV exposure.
The most special version of Alpha Arbutin is perhaps that made by Tyrostat. Tyrostat claims its skin-lightening ingredients, in particular its version of Alpha Arbutin, is derived from plants that are native to the northern Canadian prairie region. The most significant “plant” out of these is the Rumex. Traditionally the plant is used more to stop the sting in nettles (it’s a proven folk remedy for nettle stings and rashes), or as an astringent. However, Tyrostat apparently found a new use, bringing Rumex extract’s high concentration of Alpha Arbutin to the table and promoting its capability in inhibiting the production of the enzyme tyrosinase, leading to clearer complexion and a reduction in skin pigmentation, by limiting both melanin production (tan) and skin reddening (erythema).
***This list was emailed to me from Alexis Robertson, L.M.E., of Image Skin Care, a cosmeceutical line that I use and love. Check it out at ImageSkinCare.com